This is why I didn't immediately put a heli coil in it. Sorry I should have mentioned this before. I did try to tap the hole at a bigger size, but it's crooked-the bolt doesn't stick out at 90deg. Since the hole has threads something for the JB to grab onto , and I have the right size heli coils, would it be strong enough if I put a heli coil into the JB? A fix that has worked for me on a similar application, seems similar to the one mentioned by Loyale 2.
You already have a hole sounds like the bit started walking off the side of the bolt and got into the softer aluminum. Possible solution: go ahead and clean up the hole by drilling it out to round again the next size that is big enough to make a round hole but no larger than absolutely necessary. I recommend using a grade 5 or grade 2 bolt either will be harder than the aluminum. Next bolt on your "bad" water pump as a guide. Then get a short section of hard brake line just small enough to go inside the factory bolt hole in the water pump.
About an inch or so of line should do the trick. Next get a drill bit just small enough to fit inside the piece of hard line. Stick the hard line through the "template hole" on the "bad" waterpump, then stick the bit through and start drilling slowly. The harder piece of steel beside the bolt should reduce the tendency of the bit to walk and the brake line section should help keep the bit from cutting sideways and help keep it straighter.
It will further help reduce "walk". After you have your nice straight hole in the center of the old bolt, start drilling larger sizes until you get your optimum size, then tap or helicoil or other similar product as appropriate. Using "left twist" bits may even extract the bolt. Duh , I swear I'm half blind, ya the one that says plastic.
I did use the closest I could find to the 3. I think I'm going to first try some lube for cutting the threads and if that doesn't work I'll do like the dude in the video. Sat Aug 08, am link quote Christopher I was thinking that as well but couldn't get the tap started, maybe a touch more reaming with the small drill bit first. Sat Aug 08, pm link quote Lynnb wrote: Christopher I was thinking that as well but couldn't get the tap started, maybe a touch more reaming with the small drill bit first.
Are you using a bottoming tap? If so start with a normal tap with a tapered end, then continue with a bottom tap. Sat Aug 08, pm link quote Why don't you just JB weld a nut on the inside of the headset..???
Yep the pointy one. Sat Aug 08, pm link quote pheasant plucker wrote: Why don't you just JB weld a nut on the inside of the headset..??? This will be the last play, soon as I give up. Sat Aug 08, pm link quote Is there enough rom for a timesert to get threads back in there? Sat Aug 08, pm link quote Lynnb wrote: pheasant plucker wrote: Why don't you just JB weld a nut on the inside of the headset..??? This will be the last play, soon as I give up Give up already! Even if you do tap the JB weld it isn't going to have a shit show chance of not stripping.
I'd get the largest diameter but thin nut I could find The force that you want the JB weld dealing with is 1. Not turning when you tighten the bolt. You want the nut already held tight to the inside of the headset or when you tighten it will break the JB weld bond. Sat Aug 08, pm link quote pheasant plucker wrote: Lynnb wrote: pheasant plucker wrote: Why don't you just JB weld a nut on the inside of the headset..???
That's where a blind nut if he can find the size he needs works well. Sat Aug 08, pm link quote Ok guys let's see how this sets up and if doesn't work, into the nut.
Sat Aug 08, pm link quote Found a couple nuts , hard to see through the jb weld but there on there. Sat Aug 08, pm link quote My GS headset had the same problem.
Sun Aug 09, am link quote nomadinsiam wrote: My GS headset had the same problem. I would have no problem welding it up myself , plug weld would fill it in a second, I just don't feel like repainting the headset. Sun Aug 09, am link quote Took a bit to get the screw back out and I did lube them but it looks like it worked ok , even the thread that was made from the jbweld probably would have been enough , but the nut on the end just added to the fix.
Sun Aug 09, pm link quote Nice fix. Mon Aug 10, am link quote charlieman22 wrote: Nice fix. Mon Aug 10, am link quote Are you guys trying to tell me that JB weld alone would hold against a M4 thread???
Mon Aug 10, am link quote It is what it is, but I feel confident that it is a hoax and maybe even a witch-hunt. Case was badly cracked and the carb boss was sheared off. I carefully cleaned everything and v grooved the cracks.
Cleaned again and preheated the case in the oven. Mixed up a fresh batch of JB weld and carefully worked it into the v grooves. Engine ran fine and I still have it. JB weld is pretty good stuff if you use it right. Harold and Susan Vordos Contact options for registered users. Quoted Text Here before, to pull I don't think you'll have any luck with that idea. The tensile strength of the epoxy is far less than needed, even if you used a good release agent and could get the bolt out afterwards.
You wouldn't be able to tighten the connection well enough to do any good without pulling the threads again. You're sort of stuck.
There's lots of things you can do to repair the thread, but you'll have to have access to the hole with at least hand tools to accomplish them. Andy Dingley Contact options for registered users. Quoted Text Here If you really care, get a drill in there you might need to saw the car in half to get to it. But this is a bodge. Click to see the full signature. BEAR Contact options for registered users.
The pan?? A stud would work fine for this, as there is no real force on this end of the bracket, so thanx to those who suggested it If all of the JB is removed by drilling and tapping so be it, if not hopefully it will fill in any voids. Just curious why HD would use a Grade 8 a bolt in an aluminum part? Wouldn't the softer metal negate the need for Grade 8 hardware?
Should these bolts have blue Loctite on them or anti-seize? There was a boatload of threadlocker on them, but I thought the idea was to prevent the galvanic reaction between the dissimilar metals? Does thread locker work the same way? BTW this is a brand new HD crate motor, I'll see if they're willing to cover this under warranty, but I'm not holding my breath.
As always I'm learning a ton, sometimes the hardway. From now on I will be chasing any threads that even give any resistance when being assembled. Jim, let us know how the Honda fix works out Thanks all, Lou.
The strength is most likely justified. Higher grade fasteners also usually have better shape. It is quite possible the threads were yielded by incorrect torque from the factory. Not something very easy to prove.
Blue loctite will indeed hold a fastener with enough thread contact. It is much softer than red which gets quite hard. The thread lock also help prevent galvanic action between aluminum and fastener materials plating usually. In any case, thread locker needs to be removed from threads before re-assembly.
Chase threads with a tap and tap fluid, wire brush external threads with care to remove locker only or chemically strip again without damage to fastener A lot of this stuff is learn as you go, not in manuals and common daily wrench incidents. On reason hourly shop costs are so high You pay for experience one way or the other.
Picked up the helicoil I'll give it a shot, hopefully that will work. The local HD dealer doesn't have any of the rocker box bolts and it will take them ten days to get one, unbelievable. I'm trying to find a local independent shop to work with on stuff like this. MechWerks - Ok on the support of the valvetrain that makes sense.
Lastly, are you saying that I should clean the threads and apply fresh locktite or go with none? Follow the insert directions. Definately clean threads.. Go careful with taps spend the extra for HSS and not the hardware store carbon steel tools. You definately do not want to jam and break a HSS tap in anything. I can't think of any reason blue lockite would hurt anything on a a small fastener like these.
There is no rule that it should be used. Go with what makes you feel good. The coil will never be a problem. Others may chime in with their experience.
I used to make up race engines by putting inserts into all aluminum holes. Then you rarely have problems with fasteners. All that was held with safety wire
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